Гладиолусы — посадка и уход в открытом грунте! Как сажать гладиолусы?

Гладиолусы. Это дивное творение природы, гордое и эффектное, называют мужским цветком.
А ведь это соответствует действительности, «характер» то у него мужской. Ну, посудите сами – на протяжении столетий гладиолус, как через тернии к звездам, пробивался на наши клумбы. Теперь многих интересует посадка и уход за гладиолусами в открытом грунте, как сажать гладиолусы.

С ним боролись, как с сорняком. Его ели, перемалывая и добавляя в лепешки. Им лечились, наконец. Но, вопреки всему, он занял королевское место в цветниках и в сердцах своих почитателей.

Если спросите, для чего это лирическое отступление? Отвечу – для того, чтобы Вы прониклись уважением к гладиолусу и полюбили его. Поверьте, он ответит взаимностью, отблагодарит буйным цветением, порадует своей грациозной красотой.

Когда высаживать гладиолусы, посадка гладиолусов весной в грунт

Гладиолусы: посадка и уход в открытом грунте, как сажать гладиолусы

Высаживают гладиолусы в грунт весной, ориентировочный период – с двадцатых чисел апреля по 10 мая. Ориентировочно потому, что нужно учитывать погодные условия. Почва должна прогреться до 10 градусов и немножко подсохнуть.

В таких условиях корневая система будет развиваться хорошо. А когда станет совсем тепло, листья получат интенсивный посыл к росту.

Ни в коем случае не высаживайте клубни в холодную и сырую землю. Они будут слабо развиваться, и вообще могут погибнуть от болезней.

Опоздание с посадкой также не желательно. Если грунт прогреется на температуру большую, чем 15 градусов, растение не получит необходимого питания из-за слабой корневой системы. Почувствуйте золотую середину, и посадите нашего любимца вовремя.

Перед тем, как заняться высаживанием гладиолусов, давайте отметим для себя особенности цветов, что обеспечит правильный выбор участка для посадки и конечный успех нашего предприятия:

  1. Шпажник, так еще называют гладиолус из-за его необыкновенной листвы в виде шпаги, имеет африканские корни, поэтому любит солнечные участки, притом не сырые. Идеальный вариант, если место посадки будет иметь небольшой уклон.
  2. Высаживать нужно на перекопанное место, иначе клубнелуковицы будут добычей вредителей. Сразу сделаем оговорку, что гладиолусы не любят одно и то же место. Максимум на одном участке – 2 года.
  3. Почва должна быть не тяжелая. Чернозем, легкий суглинок, супесь – то, что надо.
  4. Гладиолус «обожает» хорошее питание (ну точно мужской цветок). Конечно, лучше подготовить участок еще осенью. На один квадратный метр можно смело вносить до двух ведер перегноя и глубоко перекапывать. Не помешают и минеральные удобрения – 50-80 гр. суперфосфата, 30-40 гр. калия сернокислого.
  5. Отметьте для себя важный нюанс – не вносите перегной при весенней посадке. Есть риск развития всякого рода болезней.
  6. И еще, представьте себе внешний вид гладиолуса. Высокий, стройный. Я клоню к тому, что непогода может сломать изящное создание. Поэтому при выборе участка стоит задуматься и над возможностью подвязать цветок. Притом сделать это оригинально, чтобы не испортить красоту клумбы.

Подготовка гладиолусов к посадке

Подготовка гладиолусов к посадке

Основательная подготовка обеспечит здоровье посадочного материала. Поэтому отнеситесь ответственно к этой процедуре:

  • В начале апреля занесите клубнелуковицы в комнату с комфортными условиями. 20-25 градусов и небольшая влажность – идеальный вариант;
  • Поделите луковицы по размеру;
  • Крупные луковицы очистите от покровной чешуи;
  • Осмотрите каждую на предмет заболевания;
  • От больного материала следует избавиться (к большому сожалению);
  • Крупные и здоровые клубнелуковицы разложите в светлом месте почками вверх – они дадут крупные ростки;
  • Мелкие деточки очистите от чешуи за неделю до посадки;
  • Незначительные повреждения на некоторых луковицах срежьте, обработайте зеленкой. Можно также использовать толченый уголь, другой антисептик. Сразу отмечу, что высаживаются они на неделю позже здоровых, и только после того, как ранки затянутся;
  • Перед посадкой продезинфицируйте весь материал. Нужно сделать светло – розовый раствор марганцовки, и обработать им луковицы;
  • Если выдержите посадочный материал в растворе полного минерального удобрения с микроэлементами или стимулятора роста, знайте – Вам нет цены. На всякий случай: нужно использовать или таблетку гетероауксина, или один грамм гумманата натрия, или 2 грамма янтарной кислоты. Взять один из этих препаратов, развести в 10 л. воды, выдержать материал в течение 12 часов.

Как сажать гладиолусы

Как сажать гладиолусы

Мы уже знаем, что сажать гладиолусы нужно в апреле – мае, в прогретую до 10 градусов почву. Теперь давайте делать грядки и высаживать. На что стоит обратить внимание?

На расстояние между рядками, на ширину рядков, на глубину посадки, на отставание клубней друг от друга. И еще момент – глубина посадки может быть разной, в зависимости от почвы.

Теперь по порядку:

  • Расстояние между рядками должно быть приблизительно 20 сантиметров
  • Ширина рядка должна превышать диаметр клубнелуковицы в 2-3 раза
  • Глубина посадки крупных луковиц ( больше 2 см в диаметре) — 5-10 см; средних(в диаметре 1-3 см) — 4-7 см; мелких (1 см в диаметре) – 3-5 см. Если почва тяжелая, то глубину посадки нужно уменьшать
  • Расстояние между луковицами должно быть около 20 см

Пошаговая посадка

  1. Сделали рядок
  2. Полейте его водой (можно раствором фитоспорина)
  3. Дно рядка посыпьте песочком
  4. Посадите луковицу
  5. Присыпьте земелькой
  6. Сверху обязательно замульчируйте сухим торфом, это обеспечит сохранение влаги. До всходов поливать не нужно будет.

Все, ожидаем чуда под названием гладиолус!

Уход за гладиолусами в открытом грунте

Уход за цветами это, пожалуй, самый интересный момент всего процесса. Это своеобразное общение с растением, передача ему частички своего внимания и тепла. Гладиолусы это чувствуют и реагируют в ответ здоровым ростом и обильным цветением. Уход заключается в поливе, удобрении, рыхлении, прополке.

Первый раз поливать нужно в тот момент, когда растение поднимется над землей сантиметров на 10. Поливать нужно обильно, до 10 литров воды на каждый росток. После каждого полива землю нужно подрыхлить, ведь корень гладиолуса тоже нуждается в кислороде.

Прополка это не только чистый участок, это еще и отличная дезинфекция от всех болезней и насекомых. Так что не ленитесь.

Подкормка гладиолусов это целая система, зависящая от степени роста:

  • Самая первая подкормка приходится на тот период, когда появляется второй лист. В качестве удобрения используется настой коровяка, разведенный с водой в пропорции 1:10. Замечательный вариант и настой птичьего помета (пропорции 1:20). Подкормка является корневой;
  • При появлении четвертого листика, нужно повторить корневую подкормку теми же средствами;
  • Пятый лист намекает о третьей корневой;
  • Когда появятся бутоны, настанет пора удобрить в очередной, четвертый раз. Здесь нужно будет применить внекорневую подкормку фосфатами. Для этого используется суперфосфат, который заливается кипятком за сутки до подкормки в пропорции 500 гр. удобрения на 10 л. воды, несколько раз перемешивается. Удобрение производится опрыскиванием.

И вот гладиолусы расцвели! Какая красота! Но ее тоже нужно поддерживать. Взрослые красавцы менее требовательны. Их нужно только поливать, рыхлить. При наличии вредных насекомых, цветы нужно защитить опрыскиванием.

Подвяжите аккуратно подросший гладиолус, ведь любая непогода может повалить или даже сломать его.
Уход за любимыми гладиолусами подразумевает борьбу с вредителями и болезнями. К великому сожалению, это иногда приходится делать.

Чтобы быть во всеоружии, давайте вспомним и о них:

  1. Насекомое трипс. Поражает цветы, стебель, а впоследствии переселяется в луковицу. Размножаются очень быстро и высасывают соки из растения. Чтобы спасти луковицу нужно как можно раньше срезать стебель. Можно также провести дезинфекцию луковицы, погрузив ее в горячую воду(50 градусов).
  2. Поражение луковицы корневым клещом. Как результат – засыхание всего растения. К методам борьбы с этим вредителем относится погружение луковицы на пять минут в горячую (50 градусов) воду, или опрыскивание карбофосом.
  3. Поражение сухой гнилью, в результате чего погибает все растение. Больные луковицы можно спасти, погрузив их в конский навоз. Выжившие и проросшие луковицы высаживаются в грядку.

Избежать болезней поможет хорошо организованное хранение посадочного материала, а также дезинфекция клубнелуковиц после выкапывания.

Если у Вас создалось впечатление, что гладиолус очень прихотливый цветок, отбросьте его. Глаза боятся, а руки делают.

Ничто не сравнится с удовлетворением результатами своего труда и благоуханием великолепного чуда природы на цветочной клумбе.

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